Day 1 – Kathmandu to Lukla to Phakding

After an early 3:30am start and swift passage through a chaotic Kathmandu airport the short 27 minute flight to Lukla lived up to all expectations. Following the line of the Himalayas the view of the high mountains was spectacular with us weaving between the lower peaks where at times we felt we could touch the hillsides on either side. The descent was short lived having basically climbed up to cruising altitude and then just landing. Not unlike a large noisy chair lift.

Although it isn’t the highest airport in the world, it is certainly one of the most dangerous. The runway is situated at 9000 feet and is flanked by the rugged Himalayas on all sides. The 1500-foot runway sits on a 12 degree slope and abruptly drops off into the river valley below with the pilot landing into the slope and taking off down the slope somewhat like negotiating an aircraft carrier. The airport, when the weather behaves, is abuzz with small aircraft and helicopters. The turnaround times for the aircraft landing, unloading, loading and taking off is less than 10 minutes.

Our merry band sighed a collective relief, not just at landing, but more as we were finally going to start our trek following so much preparation.

Breakfast in Lukla was the Nepalese staple of fried potatoes and eggs then it was, guess what, repacking and sorting out before our relatively short trek to Phakding. Lukla is the stepping off point for all Everest expeditions and is a lively town catering predominantly to climbers and trekkers.

It was fabulous to get out on the trail, which proved quite busy with Trekkers, donkeys and yaks. The yaks with their bells tinkling proved stubborn beasts and we were reminded several times to stand uphill when they passed so that they didn’t accidentally knock anyone over the edge.

The temperature started off very chilly early morning but rapidly warmed with the sun. The trek today took 4 1/2 hours up and down through a forested terrain with many small villages with an overall descent from 9300 ft to 8,500 ft. The villages provided a glimpse of times past with cobbled paths, yak trains with what appeared a delightfully simple and peaceful way of life. It was wonderful to finally be in the mountains but concerning that given the path ahead, what goes down must go up so we have today’s descent to make up tomorrow!

Accommodation tonight is the Beer Garden Tea House and currently we are huddled in the common room, which is somewhat heated (not as cold as outside) as opposed to our fairly basic rooms (colder than outside) enjoying supper and talk of tomorrow. Onward to Namche Bazaar.

Turtle Trekkers and Kathmandu – the adventure begins

Tomorrow we head out to the mountains but this morning there is time to enjoy a short cultural tour of Kathmandu where we visited Pashupatinath Temple and The Great Boudha Stupa. It is said that “Stepping into Kathmandu is like stepping into another world that everybody should experience at least once in their lifetime” and we are most fortunate to share that experience. Once thought to be the fabled and inaccessible Shangri-La, Kathmandu is now a hub for travellers either to explore the city or stepping off into the mountains or forests of Nepal.

We were lucky today to join the Dashain festival which is the most auspicious festival in the Nepalese annual calendar and celebrated by Nepalese Hindu people throughout the world. The sights, sounds and smells are vibrant and full of life.

This afternoon was spent repacking, again, this time in to smaller bags for the flight and trek with assembly tomorrow scheduled for 4:30 for the 6am flight to Lukla.

Turtle Trekkers enjoying the spiritualism of The Great Boudha Stupa

First Glimpse of the Himalayas

Two days after leaving Cayman and via different paths across the globe we arrive and gather in Kathmandu. The flight path takes us along the Himalayas with spectacular views of the peaks lit by the morning sunrise followed by a dip down to the greens of Kathmandu Valley.

Upon arrival however I’m met with the saddest of news. A dear friend, who on Monday morning this week I was sharing coffee, talking nonsense and laughing with, had passed. Jim was a pioneer, an adventurer, a maverick and a visionary who believed passionately in many things. He was so excited about the journey we are taking, regaling me with tales of his adventures, and he was looking forward to following our progress on this blog. May I offer my sincere condolences to Judy, Jim’s family and his many friends. Along with many others, I will miss him greatly. He was a true friend.

Today we are touring Kathmandu, repacking our gear in to bags for transportation on the trail and preparing for our early flight to Lukla.

As we set off we will embrace the challenges and the adventures ahead of us carrying with us Jim’s spirit, enthusiasm and love of the planet, soaking up the wonders of this magical place.

Commencing Countdown Engines On

We’ve certainly taken our protein pills and will shortly be putting helmets on and well .. you know the rest of the lyrics. Thank you DB.

Following six months of planning, preparation, training, diet, medical examinations, inoculations and endless purchasing of clothing and equipment we have arrived at departure weekend. The expanding pile of “stuff” that has accumulated over the past weeks dwarfs the bag in which it should be travelling and it’s with excitement and trepidation that we start to squeeze everything into pint sized compression sacks and discard the things we really don’t need after all.

Each of us has acheived goals relating to fitness, cardio, endurance and weight and we have trained in many different ways. Today saw our final session on the Tower at Camana Bay followed by coffee at Bruno’s and it’s at this time that we reflect on what’s to come, the adventure, the people we meet, the friends we make, the sights, the sounds, the silence and the wondrous experience of the high mountains of the Himalaya. Truth be told, we really don’t know what to expect at all but more importantly, how will we feel when we return in a month.

I confided to a friend over lunch that whilst the trek will be arduous I am somewhat nervous with aspects of the climb to which he replied “that’s the adventure, if you weren’t nervous you may as well go to Miami”. So .. we’re going to the Himalayas.

 

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Henry taking it seriously ice climbing on Les Grandes Montes

 

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The final Tower assault … we will miss the many friends we have met on the early morning tower sessions
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and the post training coffee at Bruno’s

 

Final Itinerary

Following a few last minute revisions the itinerary has settled and looks like:

  •  OCT 18         Arrival in Kathmandu
  •  OCT 19         Cultural tour and Trek preparation
  •  OCT 20         Fly to Lukla (2800m) and trek to Phakding (2850)
  •  OCT 21         Trek to Namche (3440m)
  •  OCT 22         Acclimatization rest day
  •  OCT 23         Trek to Thyangboche
  •  OCT 24         Trek to Dingboche (4360m)
  •  OCT 25         Rest day at Dingboche (4360m)
  •  OCT 26         Trek to Lobuche (4930m)
  •  OCT 27         Trek to Gorak Shep (5288m) and Everest base camp (5545m) 
  •  OCT 28         Climb Kalapathar and trek to Dingboche
  •  OCT 29         Trek to Chukung (4730m)
  •  OCT 30         Trek to Island peak base camp (5120m)
  •  OCT 31         Climbing Clinic at base camp
  •  NOV 1st        Gear review and climb to High Camp
  •  NOV 2           Island Peak Summit (6189m) and return to Base camp
  •  NOV 3           Trek to Dingoboche (4410m)
  •  NOV 4           Trek to Zhongla (4830)
  •  NOV 5           Trek to Gokyo lakes (4870m) after the Choal apass (5420m)
  •  NOV 6           Trek to Gokyo ri (5420m)
  •  NOV 7           Trek to Lumngden  (4400m) after the Rinjo la pass (5425m)
  •  NOV 8           Trek to Thame (3800m)
  •  NOV 9           Trek to Namche (3440m)
  •  NOV 10         Expansion day  in case of need
  •  NOV 11         Trek to Lukla
  •  NOV 12         Fly to Kathmandu
  •  NOV 13         Kathmandu
  •  NOV14          Depart Kathmandu

 

Cayman style

Training at sea level for a Himalaya expedition requires a level of creativity.

Craig takes to the soft sand for some hard early morning trekking and discovers a true Turtle Trekker has left her mark

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Hang on ….. is that a backpack or a lunch kit Marcos is carrying?

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Marcos takes to the sea and pulls a tasty dish

 

 

             Vico is seen out and about on his trusty steed

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…. and Henry is testing his mountain gear on the high seas

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Rock skills Brac style

Turtle Trekkers were Brac bound in August to brush up on rock climbing and rappelling skills to prepare for Imja Tse where the summit push ice walls will be testing.

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Angel, our fabulous instructor, guided us through a grueling and worthwhile day on the Bluff. A fabulous experience even if we weren’t heading to Nepal.

 

 

 

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First blood falls to Shetty

 

 

 

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An unexpected journey

Vico has assembled an unlikely band of aging comrades to tackle a journey from our tiny island to the roof of the world for a memorable Himalayan adventure.

Our 26 days in the Himalayan Kingdom of Nepal will take us to the Everest region through high passes and the three spectacular Himalayan valleys of Gokyo, Khumbu and Imja. Along the way we take in Gokyo lakes, Gokyo Ri, the Himalayan traverse of Chola Pass, Everest Base camp and Kala Pathar before scaling Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse at, 6,189m. Imja Tse lies just to the south of Everest with spectatcular views of the surrounding peaks and panoramas.

We are travelling with a local company Mountain Monarch Adventures.

Please join Vico, Marcos, Craig, Shetty, Henry, Barry and Keith on this most unexpected of journeys:

Good company in a journey makes the way seem shorter. — Izaak Walton

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